Chablis Vaudesir, Grand Cru 2014

(Billaud has plots in the cold, minerally, fresh southwest side of the appellation and in the southeastern portion, which ripens earlier; like the Preuses, this went through its alcoholic and malolactic fermentations entirely in oak and was then racked into tank in April of 2015 for 12 additional months of aging on its lees): Pale yellow. Ripe peach and crushed stone along with some obvious vanillin oak on the highly aromatic nose. Very rich, saline and backward, with pure minerality contributing to its youthfully austere character. Boasts excellent density and energy but comes across as much more angular and unevolved in the early going than the Séchet. A touch of finishing bitterness will require patience. Billaud noted that part of this cuvée was aged in a new 400-liter Chassin barrel. This was the first vintage to include some estate fruit.

Score: 92

Stephen Tanzer, Vinous.com Maturity: 2020-2032 01 July 2016

The 2014 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir comes from two parcels facing east and west that Samuel Billaud told me complement each other. This had only finished its malolactic three weeks prior to my tasting. Perhaps as a consequence of that the nose is stubborn and backward. The palate is more expressive, hints of orange rind and citrus peel, superb mineralité and a sophisticated, beautifully focused finish that will be glorious once in bottle. Oh yes this is Samuel Billaud in full glorious flight. I cannot wait to taste this in bottle once those aromatics start to blossom.

Score: 94 - 96

Neal Martin, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com Maturity: 2017-2035 01 August 2015