Graham 2017

5,200 cases, 11% of Graham’s port production. 42% less rain than the 30-year average at Quinta dos Malvedos. Touriga Franca, usually the last to be harvested, was harvested three weeks ahead of normal and was of such good quality that its percentage in the blend was higher than usual. Quinta dos Malvedos 58%, Quinta do Tua 21%, Quinta do Vale de Malhadas 12%, Quinta da Vila Velha 9%. Touriga Franca 47%, Touriga Nacional 35%, Sousão 11%, old mixed vines (field blend) 7%. TA 4.4 g/l, Baumé 3.9. Bottled May 2019. Black core with narrow crimson rim. Glorious fruit intensity of tangy wild berries. Sweet elderberry and hedgerow and a touch of oaky/biscuit spice in the empty glass, dark chocolate. Immense concentration of pure fruit, deep layers of velvet, and yet the fruit is fresh. Fills the mouth with luxury. No dried-fruit flavours this year. Deep and endless fruit, the tannins are rich rather than powerful, deep and rounded, so smooth. Mouth-wateringly tangy finish. (JH)

Score: 18+

Julia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com Maturity: 2030-2070 04 June 2019

The 2017 Graham’s Vintage Port was picked from August 28 at Malvedos, though production is one-third less than the previous year. Here the Touriga Franca was particularly early ripening. It has an expressive nose, a mélange of red and black fruit, fig jam, dates and touches of clove, aromatics that are very seductive if perhaps just missing the intellectual capacity of the Dow’s. The palate is medium-bodied with very supple tannins, a gorgeous Graham’s with hints of espresso and cloves that tincture the multi-layered fruit that veers towards black rather than red towards the finish that fans out without a care in the world. This is perhaps one of the more flamboyant Vintage Ports that is likely to drink earlier than the Dow’s, yet that takes nothing away from what is a beautifully crafted Graham’s. Total production is 5,250 cases.

Score: 95

Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2030-2070 01 June 2019