Chevalier Montrachet 1990

I had not had particularly good luck in terms of consistency with this wine despite having had a relatively large number of examples come my way as some are dilute and others suffer from too much oxidation to be enjoyabe. By contrast, when it is good it's genuinely stunning, revealing fully mature spicy white flower and pear fruit aromas along with rich, full and vibrant mineral-inflected flavors that possess good but not exceptional concentration though the finishing complexity is excellent on the strikingly long finale. In sum, the '90 Niellon Chevalier is notably variable but at its best it is remarkable; with that said, at this point provenance is everything so caution is warranted. Tasted twice in 2018 and both were excellent, unusual as that might be.

Score: 94

Allen Meadows, Burghound Maturity: 2018+ 21 April 2018