Brunello Filo Di Seta 2016

The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Filo di Seta is a remarkably pretty and pure expression of the vintage. It impresses with a lifted yet stimulating display of bright red fruits and savory spice, framed by notes of crushed stone, animal musk and dusty florals. This boasts striking depth and elegant textures, all offset by a mix of tart wild berries and cool-toned acids, as salty minerals create an almost-crunchy feel toward the close. The tannins are firm yet rounded, displaying tremendous balance and length, as the 2016 Filo di Seta never grows tiring or youthfully clenched. That said, the best is yet to come for this complex and age-worthy effort. It’s always a pleasure to taste with Filippo Chia of Castello Romitorio. He lets the wines speak for themselves as he muses about his theories on how they could have been better, reminding me of many chefs I’ve known that will sit there and tell you what’s wrong with their dishes while you’re too busy thinking about how enjoyable your meal is. The good news is that, as much as Filippo is constantly tinkering and may never be 100% happy with his current vintage, the wines are really something to be excited about. Castello Romitorio’s vineyards are located in the northwest of Montalcino between 220-500 meters, all broken into smaller parcels between one to two hectares, which are each surrounded by thick forests. Their diverse mix of soils include galestro, clay and albarese, making for a patchwork of terroir, each vinified separately, which can then be used to create a balanced expression of each vintage. While cool-climate in character, there’s a power and rugged feel to the wines of Romitorio, each demanding your attention but also your time. The lower elevations is where we find the vineyard which produces Filo di Seta, with thirty-five-year-old vines growing in limestone, shale, schist and clay. Filippo explains that he used extended macerations to get all that he can out of the skins, looking to communicate the power and complexities imparted by these soils--and I must admit that he succeeds in doing so. The 2016 is dark, dense and almost-salty in character with a structure to carry it for twenty years or more.

Score: 97

Eric Guido, Vinous.com Maturity: 2024-2038 01 November 2020