Gevrey Chambertin 2015

The 2015 Gevrey Chambertin Village comes from eight parcels scattered around the appellation (Mon. Boillot did list them for me, but let's say they are from respectable lieux-dits and the average age of vine is 50 years). The bouquet is cohesive and focused with plenty of ripe mulberry and red plum fruit laced with subtle damp earth aromas. The palate is nimble on its toes: very well balanced with fine poise, crisp red cherry and strawberry with a judicious amount of salinity urging you back for another sip on the finish. Excellent. I will cut to the chase: Louis Boillot has made his best wines in 2015. Unfairly overlooked in some quarters by his wife Ghislaine Barthod, Louis’ wines have stepped up a gear with superior precision and terroir expression than I have discerned during previous visits. “There was no oïdium, but there was some grillure,” he explained in the barrel cellar that is partitioned from his wife’s own barrels. “I started picking on 2 September in Volnay les Angles and finished on the 7 September. Everything was de-stemmed and averaged around 13.0° alcohol. I will bottle in April.” Of course, like Michel Lafarge and Thibault Liger-Belair, he has diversified by buying vines down in Beaujolais and I have included the tasting notes here. He picked these earlier on 27 and 28 August, and the alcoholic degrees were a little higher. “I bought a parcel of Fleurie in Grille-Midi in 2016, but it was completely destroyed by hail,” he rued. One characteristic of his 2015s is that some of his village crus clearly punch above their weight, especially an outstanding Pommard. In addition, his Volnays are really outstanding this year, including the oft-overlooked Volnay Les Angles. A couple of crus felt a little heavy, but apart from these, this is a vintage where Louis Boillot’s wines deserve your full attention.

Score: 89 - 91

Neal Martin, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com Maturity: 2019-2029 30 December 2016