Blanc De Blancs Grand Cru Ozanne NV

The May 2017 disgorgement of Fallon's NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Ozanne is showing brilliantly, wafting from the glass with aromas of citrus oil, crisp yellow orchard fruit, freshly baked bread, toasted nuts, candied peel and honeycomb. Full-bodied, vinous and concentrated, it's layered and textural, with a bright spine of acidity, a pearly enlivening mousse and a long, intensely sapid finish. Its combination of power and tension makes this the finest wine I've tasted from Fallon to date. Of course, finding any of the thousand or so bottles released every year is next to impossible, but readers able to track one or two down are in for a treat. Michel Fallon has worked with Anselme Selosse for three decades and began to produce a little wine of his own in 2008, in a style that's unsurprisingly very similar to Selosse's. Producing some 600-800 bottles per year, these wines are almost impossible to find. However, the quality is exceptional and readers who have the opportunity to try Fallon's wine emphatically shouldn't hesitate.

Score: 95

William Kelley, Vinous.com Maturity: 2021 - 2031 23 September 2021