En Primeur Bordeaux 2023
Margaux - The wines with tasting notes
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[Add to shopping basket] | Alter Ego de Palmer (2nd wine of Palmer) | Margaux | £354 | 6x75cl | 92-94 | 95-96 | 92-94 | 93 | 93-95 | 92-94 | |
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The 2023 Alter Ego is plump, juicy and super-expressive. Soft, silky tannins enshroud a core of plum, red cherry, spice, menthol and mocha. All the elements are so nicely balanced. A burst of red-toned fruit and spice lingers on a finish lifted by bright acids. This is such a sensual Alter Ego. Score: 93 - 95 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2028-2043 This is dense and velvety with a creamy texture. Blackberry, blueberry and stone aromas and flavors. Layered. Very primary and focused. 53% cabernet sauvignon, 43% merlot and 4% petit verdot. Score: 95 - 96 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com Wafting from the glass with pure aromas of cherries, berries, plums and potpourri, the 2023 Alter Ego de Palmer is medium to full-bodied, bright and vibrant, with a vigorous core of fruit framed by supple tannins. It's a blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot. Score: 92 - 94 William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com Vivid ruby plum colour, great depth of flavour, balancing spiced plum, fennel, rosemary and anis with juicy blackberry and damson fruit, all delivered with a caress of floral aromatics and well-paced momentum. The August and early September heat waves meant lost yield but higher concentration, and this is a structured Alter Ego that stretches out through the palate, with a kick on the finish. September 11 harvest through to October 5, 25% new oak for ageing. Score: 93 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux Maturity: 2028-2038 The 2023 Alter Ego represents one-third of the crop, coming exclusively from gravel soil and picked at 32hL/ha. It displays a very deep purple hue. The bouquet is notably opulent, with the Merlot very expressive and shaping the aromatics at the moment. Hints of cassis and violets lurk beneath, perhaps needing a little more delineation. The palate is actually cut from a slightly different cloth, more restrained and a touch spicier than expected. Graphite and tobacco emerge toward the finish, as if the reins have been passed over to the Cabernet component. This will be fascinating to revisit in bottle—I would just like to see more aromatic composure. Score: 92 - 94 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2028-2048 Composing one-third of the production, the 2023 Alter Ego De Palmer is based on 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot. It's an inky hued second wine that has a round, medium to full-bodied, ripe, downright sexy profile as well as ample red and blue fruits, some violet and graphite notes, ripe tannins, and a great finish. I'd be thrilled to drink this gorgeous 2023 any time over the coming 15-20 years. While I don't think 2023 is the best vintage for the second wines, this is brilliant. Score: 92 - 94 Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com |
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[Add to shopping basket] | Brane Cantenac | Margaux | £267 | 6x75cl | 93-95 | 95-96 | 93-95 | 96 | 94-96 | 95-97 | |
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The 2023 Brane-Cantenac is a sensual, silky wine. There's plenty of depth and structure behind that, but the first impression is most definitely one of elegance. Crushed flowers, spice and dried herbs meld into a core of super-expressive, dark, red-toned fruit. The 100% new oak is impeccably balanced within the wine’s frame. Brane-Cantenac remains one of the best relative values in Bordeaux, or anywhere, for that matter. This is a fine effort from proprietor Henri Lurton and his team. Tasted two times. Score: 94 - 96 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2033-2063 This shows very pretty fruit and ultra-fine tannins that have an almost al-dente sense to them. It has a medium to full body, fine tannins and a fresh, vivid finish. The tannin quality is exceptional. Score: 95 - 96 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com The 2023 Brane-Cantenac is a blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot (which saw some saignée), 1% Cabernet Franc, 1% Carmenère and 1% Petit Verdot, and it completed its malolactic fermentation in barrels as has been the rule at this estate since the 1990s. Offering up aromas of dark cherries, cassis and spices framed by creamy new oak, it's medium to full-bodied, rich and fleshy, with a creamy core of fruit and a long, gently lactic finish. Score: 93 - 95 William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com A great aromatic hit on the opening beats, giving way to silky tannins, spiced plum, rhubarb and slate, cassis and bilberry fruit, all showing depth and intensity. Such an accomplished wine, once again showing how it's done. 100% new oak for malolactic and ageing, 8 coopers, 28 different toasts. 45.7hl/h yields, which is generous for this vintage in the Margaux appellation. Harvest September 14 to October 2. 3.59ph. Score: 96 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux Maturity: 2032-2050 The 2023 Brane-Cantenac was picked from September 4 to October 2 at 45.7hL/ha with the highest IPT (Indice de Polyphénols Totaux, a measurement of tannin) ever with respect to the Merlot, which underwent some saignée in tank. Matured entirely in new oak, it has wonderful delineation on the nose, quite floral with pressed violets infusing the lifted black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a silky-smooth entry and a silver bead of acidity. Pure black fruit infused with graphite lends this Pauillac-like attributes, sustained on the finish, as usual. This is a very classical Brane-Cantenac— a worthy follow-up to the 2022. Score: 93 - 95 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2029-2050 Readers looking for one of the hidden gems in the vintage should jump on the 2023 Château Brane-Cantenac, an incredibly impressive Margaux that does everything right. Cassis, graphite, violets, lead pencil, and leafy tobacco notes all emerge on the nose, and it's medium to full-bodied on the palate, with classy, integrated oak, flawless balance, and fine tannins. I love its overall purity, as well as its balance, and it should need just 4-5 years of bottle age to show its potential. Tasted twice. Score: 95 - 97 Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com |
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[Add to shopping basket] | Cantenac Brown | Margaux | £195 | 6x75cl | 91-93 | 95-96 | 93-95 | - | 93-96 | - | |
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The 2023 Cantenac Brown is concentrated, ample and generous right out of the gate. Blackberry, incense, new leather, tobacco, menthol and chocolate are all amplified to the maximum. As is often the case, Cantenac Brown is one of the more extroverted wines in Margaux. It's a style that works so well. Readers will have to be patient, as the 2023 needs time to shed some of its baby fat. Score: 93 - 96 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2033-2063 Impressive precision to this, offering blackcurrants, blackberries and cherries, as well as hints of cedar and dark fruit. Medium to full body. Creamy and fine tannins. Better than 2022. Score: 95 - 96 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com The first vintage produced in the estate's new state-of-the-art winery, the 2023 Cantenac Brown has turned out very well indeed, offering up aromas of dark berries, pencil shavings and violets, followed by a medium to full-bodied, rich and layered palate that's serious and precise, concluding with a long, resonant finish. This blend of 71.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot and 1.5% Cabernet Franc represents 52% of the estate's production; and it reflects both the new winery's enhanced capabilities, along with the presence of old-vine Cabernet Sauvignon derived from holdings recently acquired in the heart of the plateau of Margaux. Score: 93 - 95 William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com The 2023 Cantenac Brown, now with its new eco-friendly winery under the helm of winemaker José Sanfins, has a lot of fruit intensity on the nose: blackberry and wild strawberry, with touches of melted tar and sous-bois. It's quite forward and more fruit-driven that expected. The palate is medium-bodied with rounded, very pliant tannins. It's impressively weighty and notably focused, though maybe not quite delivering the complexity and terroir expression on the finish as I found with the previous vintage. Score: 91 - 93 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2028-2048 |
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[Add to shopping basket] | Durfort Vivens | Margaux | £239 | 6x75cl | - | 95-96 | 94-95 | 95 | 92-95 | 94-96 | |
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The 2023 Durfort-Vivens is a very pretty, understated wine. In 2023, Durfort is marked by a brighter profile than usual: red fruit, blood orange and flowers. Medium in body and persistent, with good energy and very fine balance, the 2023 is promising. Even though it’s showing a touch of oak at this stage, this layered and sumptuous offering is showing well. Score: 92 - 95 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2031-2053 This has very fresh, lively and almost al-dente fruit. It’s mouthwatering and juicy. Medium-to full-bodied, refined and seamless. Long, with a firm backbone of tannins that are very fine and polished. Crunchy and structured. Chewy at the end. 92% cabernet sauvignon and 8% merlot. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Score: 95 - 96 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com The 2023 Durfort Vivens is once again dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, which represents 92% of the blend. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of minty cassis, plums and berries mingled with hints of pencil shavings and violets, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with good concentration, sweet tannins and a long, penetrating finish. With a pH of 3.66 and 13.7% alcohol, it's a resounding success. Score: 94 - 95 William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com Wonderfully fragrant aromatics that climb through the palate, this has the juice and power that 2023 does so well in the right hads, majoring on squid ink and cassis, with clear expansion through the palate, liqourice, sage, saffron, pomegrante, orange zest and salt-scrape. Harvest September 11 to October 4, 35hl/h yield, 3.66ph, 66% new oak, 33% amphoras for ageing. Right up there with the best of Margaux. Score: 95 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux Maturity: 2033-2048 Cassis, ripe tobacco, cedar pencil, chocolate, and smoky nuances all shine in the 2023 Château Durfort-Vivens, a gorgeously textured, medium to full-bodied, ripe, textured, straight-up velvety Margaux offering integrated tannins, plenty of classy background oak (it's resting in 70% new barrels), and a great finish. It's another brilliant Margaux in the vintage with tons to love. Score: 94 - 96 Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com |
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[Add to shopping basket] | Ferriere | Margaux | £162 | 6x75cl | 91-93 | 94-95 | - | 92 | 92-94 | 91-93 | |
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The 2023 Ferrière is a hugely promising wine. At this early stage, 2023 looks like a wine of notable refinement. Ferrière is typically a big Margaux with large-grained tannins, but that is not the case at all with 2023. Dark cherry, plum, lavender, spice and menthol abound. Claire Lurton likes to present this wine from tank, before the wine is put into wood, in order to show the quality of the fruit. For that reason, the en primeur sample is really just a snapshot. Score: 92 - 94 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2031-2053 Very pure fruit here, showing blackberries and black cherries, as well as hints of walnuts. Medium body. The tannins are fine-grained and well integrated. I like the concentration on the center-palate and the freshness on the finish. It’s structured and long, with lively fruit and a hint of salt at the end. Minerally. 68% cabernet sauvignon, 28% merlot, 3.5% petit verdot and 0.5% cabernet franc. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Score: 94 - 95 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com This is one of the best Ferrieres for years, with waves of blackberry, cassis, fennel, anis, liqourice root, all sweet and pure and intense, with velvety tannins. Great stuff. 40hl/h yield, 3.79ph, harvest Septemboer 13 to october 2, highest yields for for 12 years, 40% new oak for ageing overall, along with concrete eggs, touch of amphoras. Score: 92 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux Maturity: 2030-2044 The 2023 Ferrière was picked at 40hL/ha between September 13 and October 2 and matured in 40% new oak. It has a very precise bouquet, understated in style, with blackberry and bilberry fruit laced with cedar. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp black fruit on the entry, quite spicy and peppery in style. It’s a more vivacious Ferrière compared to other vintages, closing with a smooth and harmonious finish. This is a lovely Margaux from Claire Lurton. Score: 91 - 93 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2026-2044 Checking in as 61% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest mostly Merlot, raised in 40% new oak, the 2023 Château Ferriere is beautiful, with juicy red (and some blue) fruits as well as classic Margaux notes of spice, flowers, and leather. It's complex and medium-bodied, with a supple, layered, elegant texture, beautiful tannins, and a great finish. Score: 91 - 93 Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com |