En Primeur Bordeaux 2023

Pauillac - The wines with tasting notes


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[Add to shopping basket] Lafite Rothschild Pauillac £2,460 6x75cl Low Stock 95-97 97-98 97-99 98-100 95-98 95-97
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The 2023 Lafite-Rothschild races out of the glass with notable textural intensity. Explosive and deep, with striking balance, Lafite dazzles in this vintage. The 2023 is a somber, virile Lafite endowed with remarkable depth and tons of sheer character. Plum, blackberry, gravel, pencil shavings, graphite, mocha and lavender build into the intense, palate-staining finish. The blend is 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot.

Score: 95 - 98 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2023-2073

The purity of cabernet sauvignon is so evident here. It mesmerizes you with aromas of black and red currants, cedar, tobacco and bark. It's full-bodied yet there's very impressive weightlessness and agility, as well as subtlety and focus. Some iron and terra-cotta. Cedar and sandalwood undertones. Juicy and plummy at the end. 12.9% alcohol. 3.75 pH. A blend of 60% cabernet sauvignon and 40% merlot.

Score: 97 - 98 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com

The finest of the first growths this year appears to be the 2023 Lafite Rothschild, a terrific effort that unwinds in the glass with deep and incipiently complex aromas of cassis, pencil shavings, lilac and violets mingled with hints of cigar wrapper and mint. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's vibrant and refined, with a deep core of fruit, plenty of sweet structuring tannin and a compelling marriage between energy and plenitude. It's a blend of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot that reminds me of 2019's tannins combined with 2016's unimpeachable classicism.

Score: 97 - 99 William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com

This hits you right off the first nose, driven by slate and crushed rocks, setting the tone and the architecture, guiding the fruit through the palate. Cassis, bilberry, tobacco leaf, graphite, crushed mint, finessed and sculpted, this is a gorgeous Lafite, with fine tannins and the squid ink character that seems to be present in all of this stable of wines except Moulin de Duhart. Hidden power, where nothing is too much and yet everything is concentrated, once again proving that the terroir at this particular spot has its own personality that stands out every year. High Cabernet as ever, combined with around 15% press wine. Not the concentration of 2022, but in many ways showcasing the essence of Lafite more squarely, and this will delight anyone lucky enough to own it in future years. 45hl/h yield, highest since 2015, harvest September 7 to 29. 100% new oak. New cellar underway, due for completion in 2027. I am giving it 10 years to begin entering its opening window, a little less than usual but it will make no difference to how long you can cellar it.

Score: 98 - 100 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux Maturity: 2033-2055

The 2023 Lafite-Rothschild was picked September 7 to 29 at 45hL/ha and matured in 90% new oak. This is more discrete on the nose—one of the tropes of this First Growth—even when compared to the more immediate Carruades. This takes time to unfurl in the glass, slowly revealing black fruit laced with pencil box and just a touch of pressed violet. There’s wonderful precision here. The palate is medium-bodied with a cashmere texture, very pure (again) with a judicious dab of cracked black pepper. The finish is very sleek, thanks to its almost filigree tannins, seeming to glide across the palate. It's not a grippy or sinewy Pauillac, and on reflection, it is technically perfect. Yet, I find myself searching for a bit more…soul. Perhaps a few rough edges would captivate the emotions. This is a delicious Lafite-Rothschild no doubt, but I want it to move me once in bottle. Maybe it will.

Score: 95 - 97 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2030-2070

The 2023 Château Lafite-Rothschild is based on 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, and 1% Petit Verdot, resting in 90% new French oak, with the balance in once-used barrels. It's another deeply hued barrel sample that has thrilling (and classic Lafite) aromatics of darker currants, freshly sharpened pencils, leather, flowers, and graphite. These all carry over to the palate, where the wine is medium to full-bodied and has a seamless, layered, elegant mouthfeel and ultra-fine tannins. I don’t see it hitting the heights of the 2018, 2019, or 2020, but it's an incredible wine in the vintage and is going to be an ultra-classic beauty from this château that will evolve for decades. The alcohol is a respectable 12.9% and the pH is 3.78. (Lafite always tends to have a higher pH.)

Score: 95 - 97 Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com

[Add to shopping basket] Lynch Bages Pauillac £415 6x75cl 93-95 97-98 93-95 96 94-97 95-97
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The 2023 Lynch-Bages is a dark, brooding wine. In so many vintages, Lynch-Bages is a wine of sensuality, but in 2023, it is quite the powerhouse. Formidable tannins wrap around a core of black fruit, spice, menthol, licorice and gravel. This is a somber, introspective Lynch-Bages with a ton of Cabernet Sauvignon character. I can't wait to taste this from bottle.

Score: 94 - 97 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2033-2073

Blackberry, black cherry, crushed stone and graphite. Lead pencil, too. It’s full-bodied with juicy, chewy tannins. Vertical and layered with lovely length. Quite plush. Chewy tannins at the end. Cabernet sauvignon driven. Showing excellent potential.

Score: 97 - 98 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com

As usual one of the chunkier, broader-shouldered wines of the Médoc, the 2023 Lynch-Bages exhibits aromas of dark berries and cassis mingled with pencil shavings, licorice and pipe tobacco, framed by creamy new oak. Medium to full-bodied, rich and layered, it's deep, concentrated and generously extracted, with plenty of youthfully chewy tannin to carry it along in the cellar. The 2023 is a blend of 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot.

Score: 93 - 95 William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com

Concentrated, intense and muscular, not a word that I have used very often in 2023 Bordeaux. You get a deeply-rooted tannic grip, with soot, squid ink, cassis, blackberry, bilberry, liqourice root, slate scrap, pummice stone and mint. Lynch Bages seems to be wrought from a different place than it was a decade ago, impressive, powerful Pauillac, with an eye on long ageing. 75% new oak, Jean-Charles Cazes owner, Nicolas Labenne technical director.

Score: 96 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux Maturity: 2033-2048

The 2023 Lynch-Bages takes some time to really settle, so I gave it 5-10 minutes in the glass. On the nose, glossy black fruit mixes with touches of cassis, graphite, violets and blood orange, perhaps demonstrating more horsepower than I anticipated. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, saturated tannins. There is a lovely symmetry to this Pauillac (not unlike Latour), armed with a cashmere texture and plenty of backbone on the finish, even though I would not describe it as a "grippy" Lynch-Bages. There’s plenty of graphite character on the aftertaste. Excellent.

Score: 93 - 95 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2030-2060

The flagship 2023 Château Lynch-Bages is based on 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Petit Verdot, resting in 75% new French oak. One of the biggest, richest wines in the vintage, it’s deep purple-hued and offers up some classic Lynch richness in its smoky black fruits, smoked earth, graphite, and tobacco-driven aromatics. These carry to a full-bodied Pauillac with ample mid-palate depth, ripe, building tannins, and a great finish. While it's clearly in the lively, fresher style of the vintage, it's a serious, structured, incredibly impressive Pauillac with tons to love. It's not far off the style of the 2019.

Score: 95 - 97 Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com

[Add to shopping basket] Lynch Moussas Pauillac £146 6x75cl 90-92 94-95 - 93 92-94 89-91
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The 2023 Lynch-Moussas is super-expressive right out of the gate. The lifted, expansive bouquet is enticing. Red-toned fruit, blood orange, cedar, new leather and sweet pipe tobacco build over time, adding layers of complexity and overall dimension. This stylish, mid-weight Pauillac is a delight.

Score: 92 - 94 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2028-2043

This really takes off at the end. It’s medium-bodied with excellent tannins that run the length of the wine. Very solid. 78% cabernet sauvignon and 22% merlot.

Score: 94 - 95 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com

Lynch Moussas is classically one of the lighter-styled Pauillac classifieds, and its intensity in both colour and tannic architecture in this vintage reflects just how well this appellation has fared in 2023. There is balance to the blackberry fruits set against tobacco leaf and liqourice, although the levels of ripeness are not as fully in evidence as with Batailley. But honestly, this small group of wines, under the ownership of Philippe Casteja, can be relied up for offering typicity and great quality at still-reasonable prices. 49hl/h yield. 58% new oak for ageing, 50% 1st wine.

Score: 93 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux Maturity: 2030-2045

The 2023 Lynch-Moussas was picked from September 12 to October 5 and matured in 58% new oak according to Frédéric Castèja. Quite lucid in color, the concentrated nose opens immediately with blackcurrant, cedar and violets, albeit lacking the precision of the Batailley. The palate has a velvety entry and a fine line of acidity, cohesive with a finish that seems to glide. Maybe it doesn't have the density of a great Lynch-Moussas, but this will be a very drinkable Pauillac. It will benefit from three or four years in bottle.

Score: 90 - 92 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2028-2045

Smoky red and black fruits, spicy oak, savory herbs, and cedar all emerge from the 2023 Château Lynch-Moussas, a medium-bodied, nicely balanced, elegant 2023 that has ripe, integrated tannins, moderate overall density, yet solid length on the finish. It's a solid effort in the vintage that's going to shine with just a few years of bottle age.

Score: 89 - 91 Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com

[Add to shopping basket] Mouton Rothschild Pauillac £2,034 6x75cl On allocation 96-98 98-99 94-96 98-100 96-99 96-98
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The 2023 Mouton Rothschild is shaping up to be one of the wines of the vintages on the Left Bank. Its balance of intense, super-concentrated fruit and equally imposing structure is spellbinding. Dark red-toned fruit, blood orange, spice, pencil shavings and dried herbs gain intensity in the glass. I especially admire its vertical build and overall energy. This is an exciting young Mouton endowed with palpable dynamic energy. It's a superb effort from the team led by Technical Director Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy.

Score: 96 - 99 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2033-2073

This is the most structured Mouton since the great 2016, with tannins that start slowly and then take off. It’s muscular and toned. It’s full-bodied but doesn’t come across too heavy. It builds up in intensity and goes on and on and on. It just keeps expanding. I took a double take here. 93% cabernet sauvignon and 7% merlot.

Score: 98 - 99 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com

Aromas of crème de cassis and dark berries mingled with pencil shaving, espresso roast and violets introduce the 2023 Mouton Rothschild, a medium to full-bodied, layered and fleshy wine with a creamy core of ripe but lively fruit, sweet tannins and an expansive finish. In terms of parcels, the 2023 is quite different in origins from the 2022, favoring plots that are better-drained rather than those resistant to drought. It's a blend of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Merlot, without either Cabernet Franc or Petit Verdot featuring in the blend, and it attained 13.3% alcohol.

Score: 94 - 96 William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com

High Cabernet, and the grape is dominant not just in blend but character, totally delicious, with tension, flesh, and confidence, building layers of black fruits, graphite, cocoa bean, espresso, pomegranate and smoked earth throughout the palate. When Cabernet works at Mouton, it is hard to beat, and it's on full display in 2023. One of my clear wines of the vintage. Of any vintage. 100% new oak for ageing. 40% grand vin, harvest September 7 to 30.

Score: 98 - 100 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux Maturity: 2033-2050

The 2023 Mouton Rothschild was picked from September 7 to 30 and contains 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, the second highest ever (after the 2010). Matured entirely in new oak as usual, this has an intense, floral bouquet with violet petals infusing the black fruit and touches of licorice loitering just off stage—very fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with extremely refined tannins. Focused and harmonious, it’s velvety smooth with a long and tender finish that has more crispness than the 2022. In fact, I might ultimately end up preferring this over the 2022…it will be interesting finding out in the future!

Score: 96 - 98 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2030-2070

Pulled from just 40% of the production, the 2023 Château Mouton Rothschild is based on 93% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Merlot that will see 18 months in new barrels. Tasting like the blood of Cabernet with its smoky red, black, and blue fruits, tobacco leaf, graphite, and cedar-driven aromatics, this beauty hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a pure, polished, layered mouthfeel, beautiful concentration, and ripe, velvety tannins. Not the massive style of the 2022, it’s more in line with the 2016. This rich, elegant, seamless 2023 will need a decade to hit its prime.

Score: 96 - 98 Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com

[Add to shopping basket] Pedesclaux Pauillac £150 6x75cl 89-91 95-96 90-93 94 92-94 -
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The 2023 Pedesclaux is one of the best wines I have tasted here in some time, maybe ever. It offers a striking mix of ripe dark fruit and bright acids. My impression is that the extractions are less pushed, which really seems to emphasize vibrancy in the fruit. The 10% Cabernet Franc really lifts the aromatics, but it’s the wine's balance and energy that I admire most. Terrific.

Score: 92 - 94 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2028-2043

There is a really pretty, powdery-tannin texture to this, with dark-berry and currant character. Some orange peel, too. It’s full and layered with a sense of precision and focus. Framed and open-grained in the texture. Velvety. Real Pauillac personality here. 70% cabernet sauvignon, 20% merlot and 10% cabernet franc. May be better than 2022.

Score: 95 - 96 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com

The 2023 Pedésclaux is the estate's second organic-certified vintage. A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, it offers up attractive aromas of cassis and dark berries mingled with notions of mint and licorice, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered palate with sweet tannins, succulent acids and a rather rich, giving profile.

Score: 90 - 93 William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com

Vibrant violet reflections, great definition on the palate, with a streak of freshness from beginning to end, sculpted cassis and bilberry, crayon and graphite. Pedesclaux going from strength to strength under the new regime. Second vintage certified organic, 17 days of harvesting from September 13 through to October 4, 65% new oak for aging.

Score: 94 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux Maturity: 2030-2048

The 2023 Pédesclaux was picked from September 13 to October 4 and includes the old Cabernet vines. Matured in 65% new oak, it has a comparatively opulent bouquet with perfumed black cherries, violet petals and a hint of licorice. I would like a little more Pauillac DNA to be articulated on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, quite peppery on the entry, with modest depth. Salted licorice and graphite notes emerge toward what feels like a more structured finish. This will require four to five years in bottle. It just needs to develop more personality.

Score: 89 - 91 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2028-2042

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