En Primeur Bordeaux 2023

The 2023 Clos Fourtet is pure class. Elegant and soaring, the 2023 offers up an exciting mélange of dark-toned fruit, leather, incense, dried herbs, pencil shavings and crushed rocks. Beams of supporting limestone-infused tannin and acid give Clos Fourtet is super-distinctive feel. The long, enduring finish is a thing of beauty. Clos Fourtet remains a benchmark example of wines from Saint-Émilion's famed limestone plateau. Tasted two times.

Score: 94 - 96 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2030-2063

The 2023 Clos Fourtet is especially suave and refined this year, wafting from the glass with deep aromas of red berries, licorice, violets and pencil shavings, framed by a nicely integrated patina of new oak. Medium to full-bodied, supple and layered, with a velvety attack that segues into a bright, precise mid-palate, it's pure and lively, concluding with a mineral finish.

Score: 94 - 96 William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com

The 2023 Clos Fourtet was picked from September 14 to October 3 and aged in 40% new oak. The nose is very attractive and quite sensual in style with red cherries, crushed strawberries and incense. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, fresh, focused, pure and quite linear on the finish. This is much more classically styled than the 2022, and it conveys tenderness and persistence. Superb.

Score: 92 - 94 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2027-2047

The 2023 Figeac is gorgeous. Seamless and vibrant, with captivating elegance, this is an absolute beauty. What I admire most is its exceptional balance. Everything is in the right place. Time in the glass brings out hints of gravel, dried herbs, licorice, tobacco and cedar that add dimension. Although it is early, Figeac is shaping up to be one of the wines of the vintage.

Score: 95 - 98 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2033-2073

A brilliant classic in the making, the 2023 Figeac unwinds in the glass with aromas of cassis and mulberry mingled with notions of iris, cigar wrapper, pencil shavings, burning embers and spices. Medium to full-bodied, rich and layered, it's deep and concentrated, with an enveloping core of fruit that's framed by powdery tannins and lively acids, concluding with a broad, atypically mineral finish. It's a blend of 41% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Franc and 27% Cabernet Sauvignon that attained 13.5% alcohol.

Score: 96 - 98 William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com

The 2023 Figeac was cropped at 45hL/ha from September 6 until October 5, one of the longest harvest periods ever. It matured in 100% new oak, as usual. My samples included the 5% vin de presse. This has a very perfumed bouquet: red fruit rather than black, iris flower rather than violet, light sous-bois and tobacco scents deriving from the Cabernets. The palate is medium-bodied, and the Cabernets really "sing" on the entry. Black fruit mixes with graphite and light tobacco notes, surging with fresh acidity and real brightness, or what the French call éclat. There’s gentle grip here—classic Figeac from start to finish, with a subtle marine influence toward the close. This will be a wonderful Saint-Émilion that ranks amongst the best wines of the vintage. Chapeau!

Score: 96 - 98 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2030-2065

The 2023 de Fonbel is an exotic wine, perhaps because of its varietal blend of 64% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Carménère. Rose petal, mint, lavender and dried herbs open in the bouquet. I find the tannins a bit severe on the finish, but perhaps élevage will take care of some of that.

Score: 90 - 92 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2028-2043

The 2023 Franc Mayne is a plush, exotic Saint-Émilion. Rose petal, raspberry jam, mocha, licorice and chocolate infuse the 2023 with notable depth. This plush, extroverted Saint-Émilion is quite forward and racy—quite the charmer. Franc Mayne is all Merlot, but it has very strong aromatic and saline signatures that recall Franc. Tasted two times.

Score: 92 - 94 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2030-2043

Ripe black fruits, orange peel, liqourice, cocoa bean, careful construction, attractively measured grilled oak, not the concentration of the 2022 at this property, but it has a more supple appeal, and great to see the consistency in differently-styled vintages. Second year in organic certification. Thomas Duclos consultant since 2018. 50% new oak barrels and 50% of wooden casks and amphoras.

Score: 92 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux Maturity: 2030-2044

A heady, exotic Saint-Émilion, the 2023 Grand-Mayne makes a strong opening statement. Readers will find a wine of dimension and textural resonance. Blackberry, chocolate, licorice, spice and dried herbs are all beautifully amplified. This is impressive.

Score: 92 - 94 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2030-2043

Bright ruby red, vivid depths to the body of the wine, well balanced, kick of eucalyptus and mint, hint of grilled cloves, with clear juice and limestone grip running through the black cherry and damson fruit. The Nony family has produced another exceptional vintage here. 50% new. 49hl/ha yield. Possible upscore in bottle.

Score: 93 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux Maturity: 2030-2044