En Primeur Bordeaux 2023

St Emilion - The wines with tasting notes


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[Add to waiting list] Petit Cheval (2nd wine of Cheval Blanc) St Emilion £720 6x75cl Sold Out 91-93 - 89-91 93 92-94 -
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The 2023 Le Petit Cheval represents 10% of the estate's production and is a blend of equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Franc. In a way, that results in a Petit Cheval that is very Cheval, meaning very expressive in the bouquet but less giving on the palate. Crushed red berry fruit, cinnamon, star anise, pomegranate and blood orange lend an exotic flair. Bright acids and persistent tannins appear on the finish to give the wine shape, closing with a burst of energy. Superb.

Score: 92 - 94 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2028-2043

There’s depth of fruit, good structure and freshness in this black-cherry and chocolate-scented wine. It’s full-bodied, yet it tightens up on the finish. Toned, muscular and crisp. 10% of the production of Cheval. 50% merlot and 50% cabernet franc.

Score: - James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com

There are only 15,000 bottles of the 2023 Le Petit Cheval, a blend of equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Franc that didn't have quite the plenitude of the grand vin. Offering up an attractive bouquet of minty berries, cherries, plums and petals, it's medium-bodied, pillowy and vibrant, with polished tannins and a bright core of fruit. I suspect that a bit of patience will be rewarded by more fat and texture.

Score: 89 - 91 William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com

Precise carved quality to this Petit Cheval, gorgeous vibrancy to the tannins, savoury cassis and blueberry fruits, with sage, fennel and lemongrass edges, grilled and mouthwatering spices on the finish. Drawn from five plots in 2023. Pierre Olivier Clouet director, 40hl/h yield, 10% of overall production, harvest September 6 to October 3.

Score: 93 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux Maturity: 2030-2044

The 2023 Le Petit Cheval, which sees no new oak, offers blackberry and raspberry fruit on the nose, with hints of fireside hearth and light Earl Grey aromas, all finely delineated. The palate is medium-bodied with expressive Cabernet Franc that imparts subtle bell pepper notes in the background. Cohesive, silky-smooth and moderate in length, this is an attractive Le Petit Cheval that will give a decade's drinking pleasure.

Score: 91 - 93 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2026-2038

[Add to shopping basket] Quintus St Emilion £420 6x75cl - 95-96 93-95 94 94-96 -
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The 2023 Quintus is a rich, racy Grand Vin. Ample and resonant, the 2023 offers up copious dark-toned fruit, cedar, mint, tobacco, incense and French oak. There's tons of power and breadth but also more freshness than the early vintages, even if the oak is a touch present today.

Score: 94 - 96 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2028-2048

The purity of the fruit here is so impressive, with raspberry, lead pencil, cedar and sandalwood. Medium to full body with very fine and intense tannins that run the length of the wine. Mineral. Tensioned. Beautifully integrated and sophisticated at the end. Lightly salty. 78.3% merlot and 21.7% cabernet franc.

Score: 95 - 96 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com

This year, the 2023 Quintus is a well-performing wine, possessing a dense, complex bouquet of smoke, dark wild berries and licorice intertwined with a delicate, oaky frame. Fleshy and ample, medium to full-bodied, it’s perfectly balanced with a delicate, lively core of fruit and a long, ethereal and chalky finish. The influence of the Grand Pontet limestone plateau lends additional straightness and precision to this wine, a blend of 78.3% Merlot and 21.7% Cabernet Franc. - Tasted by Yohan Castaing

Score: 93 - 95 William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com

Brambled fruit, richly textured, with juice that runs through the palate bringing you into the heart of St Emilion. Push and pull in texture between grilled smoky oak and slate-scraping pumice stone tannins, this takes its time to open, well judged and skilfully constructed. 43hl/h yield, 42ha in production since addition of Grand Pontet in 2021. Audrey Bernard joined the technical team in March 2021 direct from Opus One, plus new director Mariette Veyssiere.

Score: 94 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux

[Add to shopping basket] Saintayme St Emilion £61 12x75cl 89-91 92-93 88-90 92 91-93 -
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The 2023 Saintayme, 100% Merlot, is a deep, serious wine. There's a real core of inner strength here. Dark red fruit, cedar, spice and dried flowers open with some coaxing, but the 2023 impresses most with its overall poise. Pretty floral overtones add brightness. The 2023 is a very fine Saintayme.

Score: 91 - 93 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2028-2038

Lovely freshness and balance with berries, orange peel and crushed stone. It's medium-bodied with nice, round tannins. Pure merlot.

Score: 92 - 93 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com

A 100% Merlot, the 2023 Saintayme evokes aromas of dark wild berries, mulberries, licorice and pencil lead, followed by a round, supple and juicy palate with a fleshy core of fruit and dense, rich tannins that assert themselves with a structured finish. - Tasted by Yohan Castaing

Score: 88 - 90 William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com

Medium intensity ruby, austere tannins on the opening, this has lemongrass and slate, juicy raspberry and grilled spice notes, slow and steady unrolling through the palate. Plenty to love.

Score: 92 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux Maturity: 2027-2038

The 2023 Saintayme is pure Merlot, as usual, picked between September 27 and October 4 and matured in 30% new oak. This is quite lush on the nose with black plum and light blueberry scents and fine purity. It clocks in at 14.6% alcohol, but that is nicely disguised. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly powdery texture, moderate weight and good balance. There’s perhaps slightly less complexity on the finish compared to the 2022 at this stage last year.

Score: 89 - 91 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2027-2037

[Add to shopping basket] Troplong Mondot St Emilion £534 6x75cl 95-97 97-98 95-97 97 95-98 92-94
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The 2023 Troplong Mondot is simply stunning. It's one of the best wines yet made under the direction of Aymeric de Gironde. Towering and statuesque, the 2023 explodes out of the glass with tons of vertical energy. Dark red-toned fruit, licorice, spice, lavender, mocha and pencil shavings are some of the many notes that infuse the 2023 with character. The combination of soaring aromatics, chiseled fruit and a limestone-infused finish is nothing less than captivating. What a wine. Aging is in 60% new oak, 22% 20hL foudre and 18% once-used oak. Tasted two times.

Score: 95 - 98 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2033-2063

A tight and very focused young Troplong with freshness and finesse that adds plenty. Medium to full body, ultra-fine tannins and a vivid finish. Lots of blackberry and blueberry character. It really opens and envelops your palate, caressing every square inch. Cashmere-like texture. The limestone comes through beautifully.

Score: 97 - 98 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com

A blend of 84% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Cabernet Franc, the 2023 Troplong Mondot unwinds in the glass with aroma of black raspberries, mulberries and cherries mingled with notions of iris, licorice, black tea and spices. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, it's textural and mouthfilling, with the mid-palate density so typical of this terroir, its concentrated core of fruit framed by beautifully polished tannins and succulent acids.

Score: 95 - 97 William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com

Inky plum, vibrant violet edges, shows the intensity that is signature to Troplong, combining velvety texture with a lightness of touch, tomato leaf and peony aromatics. Fresh blueberry and blackberry fruits with plenty of grilled spices and sandalwood oak effortlessly integrated even at this early stage. High Cabernet Franc in the blend, and three tanks fermented with stems (which they consider as an alternative to press). 22% aged in large scale foudres, and 18% in one year old barrels, rest 60% in new oak.

Score: 97 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux Maturity: 2032-2050

The 2023 Troplong Mondot was harvested from September 5 to October 9, with 60-70% picked within nine or ten days; other parcels were "stragglers" that required more time. There is actually 4-5% whole clusters in the blend,and according to Aymeric de Gironde, it works like the vin de presse, glueing components of the wine together. Sulfur is only added when the wine is put into barrel. The 2023 has a very well-defined and focused bouquet with pure blackberry, raspberry, ground chalk and light sea cave scents. The palate is medium-bodied with a very crisp and mineral-driven entry. It's chalky in texture and quite tensile in the mouth, with a dash of black pepper on the finish. This is an individualistic Saint-Émilion that will fill out during its élevage. Very long.

Score: 95 - 97 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2028-2050

The Grand Vin 2023 Château Troplong Mondot checks in as 84% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest Cabernet Franc, from healthy yields of 53 hectoliter per hectare, raised in 60% new wood, hitting 14% alcohol and a pH of 3.48. It brings another level of density and depth, with gorgeous notes of black cherries, hints of mulberries, graphite, and crushed stone. Medium-bodied on the palate, it shines for its beautiful purity of fruit and has plenty of background oak, a creamy, rounder mouthfeel, beautiful tannins, and a great finish.

Score: 92 - 94 Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com

[Add to shopping basket] Trotte Vieille St Emilion £338 6x75cl 92-94 98-99 - - 93-95 -
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The 2023 Trotte Vieille is a seriously impressive wine. Dark, resonant and explosive, the 2023 packs a huge punch. A blast of dark fruit, herbs, menthol, spice and licorice saturates the palate, with pretty floral and savory notes that play off all that richness. Superb.

Score: 93 - 95 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2030-2053

Wow, this is really something. It is full and powerful with truly impressive depth of fruit. Yet, it remains agile and structural, with flexed muscles, balanced by a sense of floating. Well defined and poised. 53% cabernet franc, 44% merlot, and 3% cabernet. Will it be better than 2022?

Score: 98 - 99 James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com

The 2023 Trotte Vieille has quite a floral bouquet, with plenty of raspberry and crushed strawberry fruit and hints of potpourri emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with sapid red fruit and fine structure. Though it doesn't possess the sheer horsepower and length of the previous vintage, it has an animated, peppery finish that lingers in the mouth. Proprietor Frédéric Castèja actually prefers this to the 2022, and I can see why.

Score: 92 - 94 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2027-2047

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