En Primeur Bordeaux 2023

The 2023 Jean Faure is a very distinctive Saint-Émilion driven by a high percentage of Cabernet Franc in the blend. Dense and explosive in the glass, the 2023 saturates the palate with waves of inky dark fruit, chocolate, spice, new leather and licorice. Ripeness feels a bit pushed to the limit, but finding the right time to pick Franc is rarely easy.

Score: 91 - 93 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2030-2043

Violets and gunsmoke swirl upwards out of the glass, setting the scene for a sterling vintage at Jean Faure. Delicately boned, sappy blue fruit, this seduces slowly but surely, fantastic balance and fully showcasing the potential of Cabernet Franc in the vintage. Often this wine is austere and needs time when tasting En Primeur, but the fragrance and the finesse is already on full display. Brilliant stuff. 30% new oak for ageing, along with 25% oak casks, 15% concrete eggs; 30% one year old oak barrels.

Score: 96 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux Maturity: 2028-2044

The 2023 La Gaffelière is a dense, powerful wine. As has been the case since 2018, La Gaffelière has a strong Franc component—40% in 2023. Usually, the aromatics are quite lifted, but this wine is rather dense. Nothing in particular stands out, as all the elements are impeccably balanced. This will need time to be at its best, but it shows promise. The introduction of 500-liter barrels and a reduction of new oak closes the wine a bit, but there's a ton of raw energy here and a good bit of tannin, too.

Score: 93 - 96 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2030-2048

The 2023 La Gaffelière is very pure and floral on the nose, with black cherries intermingling with violet and iris flower scents. The new oak is neatly integrated here. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and layers of lightly spiced black fruit. Cedar and graphite furnish the poised but persistent finish. This is another in a succession of impressive wines from this estate that just oozes sensuality. Superb.

Score: 94 - 96 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2029-2055

The 2023 La Mondotte is fabulous. In fact, the 2023 is one of the best Mondottes I can remember tasting. A wine of vertical, explosive energy, La Mondotte dazzles from the very first taste. Inky dark fruit, mocha, lavender, new leather, spice and dried herbs build as this dynamic, complex Saint-Émilion shows off its compelling personality. Superb.

Score: 95 - 97 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2030-2048

I typically have a weakness for Canon-la-Gaffelière in the von Niepperg portfolio, but this year it's the 2023 La Mondotte, a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, that stands out as the highlight of the range. Revealing aromas of dark berries, licorice and petals, framed by creamy new oak, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and harmonious, with good depth at the core, supple tannin and a penetrating finish.

Score: 92 - 94 William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com

The 2023 Larcis Ducasse is elegant, powerful and wonderfully expressive. In other words, classic Larcis. Plum, blood orange, spice, menthol, mocha and gravel infuse the 2023 with layers of dimension that only grow with time in the glass. This will need some time to shed its considerable baby fat. Superb. Tasted four times.

Score: 94 - 96 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2033-2063

Harvested between September 14 and 25, the 2023 Larcis Ducasse offers up aromas of dark berries, preserved plums, orange confit, vine smoke, licorice and spices. Medium to full-bodied, layered and fleshy, with a sweet core of fruit framed by ripe, powdery tannins, it's succulent, suave and polished, concluding a mouthwateringly mineral finish. It's a blend of 86% Merlot and 14% Cabernet Franc.

Score: 93 - 95 William Kelley, Wine Advocate, RobertParker.com

The 2023 Larcis Ducasse was picked from September 14 to 25 at 43hL/ha. The nose is quite open with brambly red fruit, briar and subtle incense aromas. It's not as intense as the previous vintage, though I appreciate the definition and charm. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins on the entry that frame the layered black fruit, struck through with light flinty elements. Blind, I might have said there is Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend thanks to the graphite finish. It is a classically-styled Larcis Ducasse that should drink well for 20+ years.

Score: 93 - 95 Neal Martin, Vinous.com Maturity: 2028-2050

The 2023 Laroque might be the best wine David Suire has made since taking over here a few years ago. What I admire most about Laroque is its classicism—there is plenty of that on display here. Bright acids and persistent beams of supporting tannin frame dark-toned fruit, lavender, rose petal, graphite and sweet spice in a Saint-Émilion that impresses with its vibrancy and delineation. Superb. Tasted two times.

Score: 94 - 96 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com Maturity: 2033-2053

Score: 95 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux

One for the classic Saint-Emilion limestone lovers out there, the 2023 Château Laroque is almost all Merlot (there's a splash of Cabernet Franc), and it has a pure, medium-bodied, incredibly elegant profile carrying vibrant raspberry and cassis-driven fruit, some violet and floral notes, remarkable freshness and vibrancy, fine tannins, and outstanding length. It's not massive, but it’s flawlessly balanced and just a beautiful wine in the vintage that readers will love to have in the cellars.

Score: 92 - 94 Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com